Recipe Review: Biscuit Head’s Cathead Biscuits

Asheville, North Carolina is one of my favorite places – it’s where Steven asked me to marry him and it’s where we went on our socially-distanced honeymoon in the Time of Covid. And one of our favorite places to eat there (recently discovered!) is Biscuit Head. Steven got me the official Biscuit Head cookbook for Valentine’s Day, and I knew I wanted to try the recipe as soon as we could. Since the recipe is in a cookbook, here’s a link to someone who’s already copied the recipe out step-for-step.

What We Changed: We changed absolutely nothing, although I used King Arthur all-purpose flour and White Swan cake flour, because they didn’t have White Lily all-purpose or King Arthur cake flour when we went to the grocery store.

How We Failed: I have absolutely no idea what happened with this recipe, but this is the absolute worst biscuit recipe I have ever encountered in my life. Biscuit Head’s cathead biscuits are huge, fluffy, and delicious – and I should have known upon seeing the super dry biscuit mix that something was wrong, but I decided to trust the recipe on my first trip through it and follow it exactly to the letter.

It. Was. A. Disaster.

The recipe calls for cooking the biscuits for 20-25 minutes. Ours were in the oven for over 56 minutes and they were still raw in the center. They never browned on top, and the bits that were cooked that I managed to taste were dry, awful, flavorless cardboard. (Jury is still out as to whether or not this is because they’d been in the oven for so long or if the recipe is just that bad.) They were dense, heavy, and didn’t rise at all. I followed every step of the recipe to the absolute letter, even down to “snapping” the butter in like was well-described in the book. The “dough” was a dry, crumbly, terrible mess. The biscuits never rose or even began to brown, and we followed every instruction to the letter. It was the absolute worst fail I’d ever managed in the kitchen.

I went and read the reviews for the cookbook, and nearly every one of them says that the biscuits are terrible and something is horribly wrong with the biscuit recipe. The positive biscuit reviews are from people who haven’t actually tried the recipe yet. People seem to be in agreement that the rest of the recipes in the book are excellent, and the only dud is the biscuits, but come on – your main seller is the BISCUIT – why is that the one recipe that is a complete and utter flop?

Final Thoughts: Biscuit Head is an incredible restaurant, so if you get the chance to try it out in Asheville, do so! (Their COVID-19 pick-up regulations are excellent.) Also, if you’re able to go inside and sit, the décor is chonky-cat themed! However, I would absolutely skip this recipe (and maybe even the entire cookbook), because it’s not worth wasting your ingredients on it. I wish I’d read the reviews before I attempted the biscuits, but I was just so excited that I couldn’t think. This is a 0/5 star recipe, and I don’t think I’ve ever given a rating that low. Find your biscuit recipe somewhere else.

May be an image of dessert
Left: the expectation, an actual picture of a cathead biscuit from Biscuit Head. Right: my terrible and sad reality, crumbled biscuits that barely browned and were raw on the inside.

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